Polish or Perish: Nail Polish Chemicals and Their Effects on Health
Nail polish has long been used as a decorative cosmetic, and common polish ingredients have changed drastically over the course of time. Today, there is a large variety of nail polishes on the market, such as traditional, gel, shellac, and more. Nail polish toxicity is a topic generally discussed, but seldom fully understood by regular users.
In the United States, nail polishes are regulated by the Food and Drug Administration (FDA), and are treated like all other cosmetics. The FDA prohibits the use of a number of chemicals in cosmetics, and suppliers are responsible for disclosing the ingredients of commercially sold products on their packaging. However, aside from certain colour additives, products are not required to be FDA-approved before hitting shelves, and studies have found the ingredient lists of numerous polishes to be inaccurate.
In the early 2000s, many producers began launching polishes that were newly formulated to exclude Toluene-sulfonamide-formaldehyde resin (TSFR), Dibutyl phthalate (DBP), and formaldehyde, labelling them as “3-free”.
Currently, Sally Hansen is regarded as the #1 best-selling nail polish brand in the United States. Their popularity is likely attributed to their presence in drugstores and their relatively low prices. However, unlike other popular drug store brands such as OPI and Essie, they have not fully made the change to a “3-free” formula for products like their nail strengtheners or hardeners.
Toluene-sulfonamide-formaldehyde resin (TSFR) is a common chemical that is used in nail polishes to allow for better durability, adhesion to the nail, and brighter shine. Recent studies have found that TSFR is an allergen that can cause dermatitis with contact to the skin. TSFR does not change its chemical structure following contact with the skin, which allows the allergen to continuously irritate the skin.
Dibutyl phthalate (DBP) is used in many nail polishes as a protective coat that prevents chipping and keeps the nail polish color vibrant for longer periods of time. DBP does this by making the polymers in nail polish more flexible and less prone to chipping. DBP is capable of entering the bloodstream by seeping through the nail bed, leading to systemic exposure.
DBP has been found to be an endocrine disruptor, interfering with many reproductive hormones. For example, DBP has shown to increase estradiol and progesterone levels in women, which can have detrimental effects on reproductive health and cause birth defects in offspring. DBP has also been found to reduce sperm count in men.
Formaldehyde is used in nail polishes as a nail hardener. Formaldehyde is capable of forming bonds with keratin in the nails, which makes the nail harder and more durable. With repeated use of nail polishes containing formaldehyde, the nail can become brittle and prone to peeling.
Similarly to TSFR, formaldehyde is also an allergen and can cause irritation to the skin. Additionally, when formaldehyde is inhaled for extended periods of time, it can cause coughing, wheezing, and throat irritation. Long term exposure to formaldehyde can also damage DNA in cells and can cause cancer in humans.
Today, there are a number of polishes marketed as “5-free” or “16-free” at the discretion of suppliers. As these labels are unofficial and unstandardized, “5-free” polishes between brands may differ in the chemicals they refer to. Additionally, while these labels might give consumers the impression of a relatively safe product, it is possible that one toxic ingredient is simply swapped out for another.
Although there can be detrimental effects on the body from repeated exposure to some nail polish ingredients in large quantities, occasional use of nail polish does not pose a threat to home users. However, nail salon workers who are exposed to nail polish in large quantities are at higher risk of developing these detrimental symptoms. Thus, raising awareness about the importance of preventative measures among nail salon employees may help reduce these health effects for those at high risk.
By Bella Leite, Pranu Niraula, and Joyana Saha
